Coat front and method of forming same



Nov. 21, 1961 B. N. UNDER 3*,0095160 COAT FRONT AND METHOD OF' FORMING SAME Filed May l2, 1959 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTORNEYS Nov. 21, 1961 B. N. UNDER 3,009,160

COAT FRONT ANO METHOD OF FORMING SAME Filed May l2. 1959 3 Sheets-Sheetl 2 ATTORN EYS Nov. 2l, 1961 B. N. UNDER coAT FRONT AND METHOD 0F FORMING SAME 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed May l2, 1959 ATTORNEYS United States VmPatent ti ice 3,009,16() Patented Nov.. 21, 1961 3,009,160y COAT FRONT AN D METHOD OF FORMING SAME Bertram N. Linder, W. Main St., Dalton, Pa. Filed May 12, 1959, Ser'. No. 812,755 2 Claims. (CI. 2-98) Thef present invention relates to a coatV front and a method: of forming same and is a continuation-impart of my eo-pending application Serial No. 719,412, filed March v, 1958 entitled Coat and now abandoned.

The primary object of the invention is to provide a coat front and method of formingsame in which the lapel is formed integrally with the coat front and has a lseamless curved edge.

Another object of the invention is to provide a coat front and method of forming same in which the edge of the front of the `coat and the curved edge of the lapel are formed. by ai continuous folded edge. so the facing of the coat and the rever of the lapel are integral with the outer material of the coat.

A further object of the inventionl is to provide a coat front of the class described abovel in which the front edge of the coa-t is seamless and extends continuously with the curved edge of the lapel.

Other objects and advantages will become apparent in' the following` specifica-tion when considered light of the' attached drawings nwhich:

FIGURE 1 is a planview of a front panel? blank illustrating one form of the. invention;

FIGURE 2 is a plan view of a pattern blank used for markingv the fold line onthe. blank illustrated in FIGURE 1;

FIGURE 3 is a perspective view of the structure shown in FIGURE 1 in its coat form;

FIGURE 4 is an enlarged fragmentary horizontal sectional view taken along the line 4-4 of FIGURE 3, looking in the direction of the arrows;

FIGURE 5 is a plan view of the blank of a modi-tied form of the invention;

FIGURE 6 is a plan view of the pattern used for marking the fold line on the blank illustrated in FIGURE 5; and

FIGURE 7 is a perspective view of the structure shown in FIGURE 5 in its coat form.

Referring now to the drawings in detail wherein like reference characters indicate like parts throughout the several figures, the reference numeral 20 indicates generally a blank incorporating the principles of the invention.

The blank 20 has a generally horizontal lower hem edge 21 and a generally upright side seam edge 22 extending upwardly therefrom. An arcuate sleeve edge 23 extends upwardly from the upper end of the side seam edge 22. The blank 20 is provided with a generally upright fold line 24 dividing the blank 20 into a right front panel 25 and an integral facing panel 26.

The facing panel 26 has a generally upright side edge 27. The upper end of the facing panel 26 has an integral collar and lapel forming panel 28 formed thereon and provided with an arcuate upper side edge 29 extending downwardly from a generally straight end edge 30.

The panel 25 has a V-shaped dart 31 opening from the upper edge thereof adjacent the sleeve edge 23. A second or inner lapel and collar panel 32 is integrally formed with the upper end of the front panel 25 and has an arcuate side edge 33 extending downwardly from a generally straight end edge 34.

The collar panel 32 is provided with a side edge 35 positioned generally oppositely to the arcuate edge 33 and spaced therefrom, The first collar panel 28 has a 2 straight edgeA 36 positioned substantially oppositely of the arcuate edge 29 and spaced therefrom.

A relatively thin dart. 37 extends. betweenv the second collar panel. 32 and the top portion of. the panel 25 for shaping the coat in the normal manner.

The fold line 24 separating, the panel` 25 from the facing. panel. 26 is: relatively straight from the.y lower edge 21 of the 'blank 20' to a. point 38 which also marks the lower end of the. lapel 39 seen in FIGURE 3f. From the` point 38y tothe intersection of the arcuate side edges 29, 33 an arcuate fold line 40 forms an upper continuation of" the fold line 214.

Referring; now to FIGURE 2, a pattern generally indicated at `41, is illustrated for usein marking: the' fold the blank 20. The lower'section. 42 has.v a. lower edge 44 corresponding to the hem edge 21 of the blank: 20, and has att-,upright edge.: 45 corresponding. with the fold line' 24. The. pattern. 41 has an upper' portionf46 provided with: an. arcuate edge 47 corresponding to the arenater fold'. line 40 and formed as an upper continuation of.' the edge' 45 of thelowersection 47". The arcuate ledge:A 427l terminatesy in: a. guide notch 48which is-'plaeed on the apex. of; the arcuate edges 29, 33A whenV positioning the pattern 41.'. ony the blank` 201 The upper portion 46 jpinedi to the: lower port-ion: 42 alongl a line 49 having-1 perforations 50' formed' therein to permit chalk marks tot be therealong;

In: forming a coat front in accordance with the strueture illustrated in FIGURES 1. through 4 and the* method of the instant invention, the blank 20 is cut from an integral piece of material from a Iworking pattern. The pattern 41 is then placed on the blank 20 and the fold lines 24, 40 are marked thereon with chalk following the edge 45, perforations 50 and the arcuate edge 47. The chalk line delineates the front edge of the coat below the lapel 39 and separates the panel 25 from the facing panel 26. A stiienin-g canvas 51 is then sewn to the inside of the front panel with a hidden stitch adjacent to but spaced from the chalk line. A marking chain stitch is then applied along the chalk line to provide a guide during the subsequent method steps. The facing panel is then folded to underlie the front panel, being folded along the marking chain stitch. A baste stitch seam is then used to join the front panel to the facing from the hem edge 21 to the point 38 adjacent to but spaced from the guide chain stitch. A baste stitch seam then is applied to join the front panel and the facing panel from the point 38 to the upper end of the blank 20, adjacent the arcuate guide line 40 spaced from the guide chain stitch thereon. The facing of the coat front is then blocked in the area of the point 38 the juncture of the fold line 24 and the curved fold line 40 to shrink up the surplus cloth resulting from the folding of the blank 20 along the curved fold line 40.

Following these steps, the coat front is joined to other portions of the garment in a conventional manner to form the completed coat.

In FIGURES 5 through 7 a modied form of the invention is illustrated wherein a blank, generally indicated at 120, is provided with a lower hem edge 121 and a side seam edge 122 extending upwardly therefrom. An arcuate sleeve edge 123 extends inwardly from the side seam edge 122. The blank is provided with a fold line 124 dividing the blank 120 into a right front panel 125 and a facing panel 126.

The facing panel 126 has a generally upright side edge 127 and is provided at its upper end with an integral collar panel 128. The collar panel 128 has an upper arcuate side edge 129 and a generally straight end edge 130.

A generally V-shaped dart 131 extends downwardly into the upper portion of the panel 125 adjacent the arcuate sleeve edge 123. A second collar panel 132 is formed integrally with the upper edge of the right front panel 125 and is provided with an arcuate edge 133 and a generally straight end edge 134.

The fold line 124 extends from the lower edge 121 of the blank 120 to a point 138 delineating the lower edge of the lapel to be formed. An arcuate fold line 140 extends as an upper continuation of the fold line 124 from the point 138 to the intersection of the arcuate edges 129, 133.

In FIGURE 6 a fold line marking pattern is illustrated generally at 141. The marking pattern 141 has a lower section 142 with a side edge 143 corresponding to the side edge 127 of the blank 120. The section 142 has a lower edge 144 corresponding to the lower edge 121 of the blank 120 and has a generally upright side edge 145 arranged in spaced relation to the edge 143 and corresponding to the fold line 124 of the blank 120. The pattern 141 has an upper section 146 provided with an arcuate side edge 147 which is an upper continuation of the edge 145 of the section 142 and terminates at a guide notch 148. The section 146 is connected to the section 142 along a fold line 149 and has perforations 150 formed therealong to permit marking therethrough. The pattern 141 is secured to the blank 120 with the edge 143 lying along the edge 127 and with the notch 148 serving as a guide at the upper end of the blank 120. With the pattern 141 in this position the arcuate fold line 140 and the arcuate fold line 124 are marked on to the blank 120. In the formation of a coat from the blank 120, the same method steps used in the formation of the coat from the blank 20 are followed.

Having thus described the preferred embodiments of the invention, it should be understood that numerous structural modifications and adaptations may be resorted to without departing from the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. A coat blank structure comprising an elongated front panel, two collar panels integral with the top portion of said front panel, and spaced apart by a substantially V-shaped opening, an arcuate fold line extending from the apex of said opening following the contour of one of the sides of said opening downwardly in the front of said coat, one of said collar portions folded about said fold line to overlap the other of said collar portions to form a seamless lapel.

2. The structure as claimed in claim l wherein a shaping dart extends downwardly into the upper end of said elongated panel to provide means for shaping the panel to the body contour.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 751,242 Austern Feb. 2, 1904 1,492,632 Grund May` 6, 1924 1,603,829 Bloise et al. Oct. 19, 1926 2,055,802 Prins Sept. 29, 1936 2,135,139 Levinson Nov. 1, 1938 2,318,829 Zimmerman May 1l, 1943 2,332,734 Lucas et al. Oct. 26, 1943 2,584,577 Granert Feb. 5, 1952 FOREIGN PATENTS 178,874 Austria June 25, 1954 

